Home Decoration

Antique kitchen cabinets give your kitchen a distinctive look and this is what sets it apart from others. There is no dearth of styles, when it comes to decorating your kitchen with antique kitchen cabinets. If you don’t want to spend adequate money on searching for antique cabinets for kitchen, then you can try out some easy ideas to add antiquity to your kitchen cabinet. There are basically two procedures of adding antiquity, namely, staining and distressing.

Well, its upto whether you want to use a single method or use a combination of both, to make your kitchen appear fascinating. The method of staining works well in case of cabinets that have a light paint color. All that is required is a dark stain, plenty of paper towels and brush. Apply a single layer of the stain on the portion that you want to paint and then wipe it off as per your wish. Repeat the activity till it reaches your satisfaction level. For the natural look, stain more on the edges and handles of the cabinet.

Another popular way of giving your kitchen cabinet a traditional look consists of distressing. The method is apt for the painted cabinets. The changed look will make the cabinet appear as old as after hundreds of years of use. Some people resort to chains and hammers, however, for kitchen cabinets; a few sandpapers would suffice the purpose. All you have to do is to remove the finish and make the cabinet appear dull. Take a medium grit paper and rub off the finish on the door and the edges of the drawer and your antique style kitchen cabinet is ready to adorn your kitchen.

The term designer kitchen is often perceived differently by different people. For some, it is the privilege of the elite class, who can hire the services of the experts from the interior decorating world. The second category of people consider a designer kitchen to be nothing original but a replica of the kitchens that have been adorning the houses of celebrities. For others, designer kitchen means a kitchen that you design for your own sweet home, beginning from the scratch level.

Well, the concept of designer kitchen is not just about creating a kitchen, the designing of which is line with the trend, but it is also about a kitchen that reflects your personality, a kitchen in the decoration of which you’ve virtually put your heart and soul. Planning a designer kitchen is indeed a daunting task and requires everything to be planned very carefully. You need to lay emphasis on each and every small detail. Designer kitchen is one that aims at achieving perfection in almost every aspect of kitchen décor.

There can be various designer kitchen ideas, but the best idea is the one that creates a kitchen, the look of which is welcoming. If your kitchen resembles a museum or an art gallery, where one can find a fabulous collection of all the magnificent creations, then it won’t give you that comfort feeling. Decorate your kitchen in a manner that depicts your style statement as well as your personal taste. So, go ahead and design the kitchen of your dreams that exhibits your creativity and talent.

If you want to lend a warm pleasant feeling to your kitchen, it is best to decorate your kitchen in the country style. Based on the concept of simplicity, the country kitchen is great to look and easy to maintain. In the contemporary times, more and more people are resorting to country style kitchen design, as the feeling associated with it is very welcoming. There is an element of warmth attached to it. Read on to know more about the country kitchen décor.

Click the image to enlarge

Here are given some tips for decorating the kitchen as per country style:

• The most apt colors for adorning the country kitchen are the subtle shades of green, blue, pink, brown and white.
• To get the feel and look of a country kitchen, add some accents. To name a few, we have the gorgeous flowers, lush green plants, fresh fruits and vegetables.
• Incorporate wicker furniture as in the furniture made from natural wood or fiber in your country style kitchen and upholster them. If you don’t want to replace your existing furniture, then check out some new slip covers in floral motifs.
• As far as the flooring of country style kitchen is concerned, the best options are natural wood, flagstone and tiles. You can also go in for laminate flooring.
• When it comes to country kitchen décor, accessories help a great deal in enhancing the charm of your kitchen. A great idea to add a personal touch to your kitchen is to put some family pictures in the wooden photo frame and place it on the kitchen cabinet. Embellish your kitchen windows with the silky lace curtains.

Planning, remodeling and designing a kitchen includes taking a few decisions that will help you to get a better deal where you can be comfortable while cooking in the future. Here are the things that you must decide beforehand:

• You may choose from fitted kitchens that occupy less space and have more storage space or a freestanding kitchen that can be moved easily and taken to any place with you.
• Lifestyle of the family - A single person that cooks rarely will prefer a minimalist’s kitchen while a kitchen for a large family that is used quite often throughout the day needs a lot of storage space, groceries, cutlery and crockery and all the kitchen tools, equipments and appliances along with the sitting area for the family dinner gatherings
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• Seating area - A small kitchen may accommodate a small breakfast table while a big kitchen may have the dinner table set to cater to the whole family. You may also use a part of your dining/living room as the kitchen to make more space for the seating arrangement.
• Placing of refrigerator - Fridge should never be placed near the cooking hob as the appliances may not work properly. The ideal placement of refrigerator is between the entrance of the kitchen and the cooking area where all the members of the house can easily access it.
• Kitchen Shapes - Efficient kitchen is one that allows easy movement and enough space for sink; counter for food preparation, cutting and chopping; and cooking area. The most popular shapes are galley kitchens, two-way galley kitchens, L-shaped kitchens and U-shaped kitchens.
• Galley kitchens are the ones where all working areas are next to each other, have less storage space and require lot of movement.
• Two-way galley kitchens provides for storage space below the worktop, cupboards are placed on the opposite wall for easy access to minimize walking movements, is more compact and must have enough between the two galleys to avoid bumping.

  

• L-shaped kitchens provide more workspace and storage area, walking distance is minimized and corners of the kitchen can serve as the dining area.
• U-shaped kitchens have the most workspace and storage area, has less floor area and are not for claustrophobics. In case, your kitchen seems too small, you may use one of the legs as a breakfast bar or provide for an island counter instead.
• Decide on the kitchen layout, starting with the placement of sink, preparation area and hob, the placement of fridge and the service points for water, electricity and gas.
  Ventilation points and daylight should be kept in mind too.

  

Right accessories and furniture can entirely transform your kitchen into the most pleasurable area of your home. The quantity, size and theme of the kitchen accessories must match with you overall home décor theme and space available. Here are some tips for you:

• Once you have decided on the color of your walls, placing of your refrigerator, counters and cabinets, categorize all your accessories by color, size or style and then choose them according the scale and visual balance.
• Install the largest accessories first, keeping the aesthetic balance, right eye level, distance to the cooking area and then move on to the smaller ones.
• Wall clock is a must in the kitchen, whether you are a student, working person or a housewife, so that you can get done with cooking on time. It also helps to monitor your cooking better.
  Designer range hoods do not only look trendy but are also quite functional when it comes to get rid of smoke and vapors.
• Kitchen carts & worktables come in quite handy for a variety of things and can be moved or folded and slipped under the counter after use.
• Pot racks and baker’s racks are for those with advanced culinary skills.
• Covered trashcans are a must in the kitchen to discard all those soda bottles and boxes.
• Cabinet accessories, designer sinks, faucets, knobs and pulls lend a sophisticated look to the kitchen.
• Stools and chairs that can be stacked on top of the other can be used and then stacked in the corner in a small kitchen.
• Chopping blocks and countertops are a must but you may also opt for wine racks.
• Decorate your appliances too with beautiful decorative panels.
• Stainless steel wall shelves and backsplash accessories are the latest trend in kitchen décor.

Adding Interest And Accessibility To Your Kitchen
One size never fits all in a kitchen — neither from a functional nor a design standpoint. Good kitchen plans accommodate users’ varying heights, ages, mobility limitations, dexterity, and, most important, the changes in those elements which, inevitably, come with time.

Similarly, aesthetic tastes are different. “Cookie cutter” kitchens lack interest and individuality. A well-designed space makes a statement about its users.

But the best kitchen plans accomplish both. These simple ideas can improve both the functionality and the look of your kitchen:

Vary Counter Heights
This creates work spaces for various tasks (mixing/baking vs. cutting/chopping for example), and will better accommodate cooks of varying stature, including seated cooks. Varying heights also adds an interesting design element. The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) recommends that at least two counter heights be offered, one between 28″ - 36″ and another between 36″ - 45.”

Raise the Dishwasher
Raising the dishwasher 9″- 12″ above the floor makes it more accessible and easier to load/unload because you don’t have to bend to reach the bottom rack. Doing so also creates a variance in counter height, as suggested above.

Lower Some Wall Cabinets
Who says wall cabinets should all be hung at the same height? Mix it up a bit and you’ll get more storage within a comfortable reach range. Cabinets can be placed right on the counter top, or can be stepped up and down to match changes in counter heights.

According to NKBA, for a standing person 5′3″ to 5′7″ tall, cabinet space between 15″ and 69″ above the floor is most accessible.

Roll it Out, Pull it Out
Maximize storage with drawers and roll-out shelves. In base cabinets, roll-outs improve accessibility by bringing pots and supplies out to you. Drawers of varying shapes and sizes used in or between upper and lower cabinets increase storage and add design interest. NKBA recommends including at least 120″ of drawer or roll-out shelf frontage in kitchens under 150 sq. ft., and 165″ in larger kitchens.

Is your current kitchen safe? Will your new kitchen be safe? Review this checklist of planning guidelines, developed by the National Kitchen & Bath Association. They’ll help reduce the risk of accidental burns, electrocution, fire, collisions and other mishaps.

• Keep household “traffic” out of the primary cook’s work triangle (the area between the refrigerator, sink and cooking surface).
• Plan a landing space (at least 15″ wide by 16″ deep) for hot dishes, pots and baking trays either next to, above, or directly across from both the microwave and oven.
• Include a minimum 15″ by 16″ landing space on one side of the cooktop in all kitchen, space must also be allowed on the opposite side of the appliance.
• Include: At least a 9″ wide counter space if the cooking surface is placed in an open run of counter.
• At least 3″ of counter clearance space if the cooking surface is at the end of a countertop which meets a wall. The wall should be protected by a flame retardant surface.
• At least 9″ of straight counter space if the cooking surface is on an island. Also allow a 9″ clearance at the back of island cooking surfaces.
• Select a cooking surface with control knobs at the front or side of the appliance.
• Place the microwave so its bottom is 24″ to 48″ above the floor.
• Make sure all major appliances used for surface cooking have a ventilation system, with a fan rated at 150 CFM minimum.
• Do not place a cooking surface below an operable window unless the window is at least 3″ behind it and more than 24″ above it.
• Put a fire extinguisher in a visible kitchen location, away from cooking equipment.
• Install smoke alarms near the kitchen.
• Be sure ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) are specified for all electrical receptacles.
• Round, curve or clip countertop edges and corners to eliminate sharp edges.

After the demolition phase, there is usually some preparatory work to be done before you can install your new kitchen. If extensive structural, electrical, plumbing, drywall or paneling work is included in your plans it should take place at this time as well.

Walls
Gouges or holes in the walls must be repaired with wall board compound, spackle, or patching plaster. Stuff larger holes with newspaper or fine wire mesh to hold the compound. If you have gaping holes or many gouges it may be necessary to replace the surface with dry wall.

Usually, installing new cabinets will call or some changes in the position of the cabinets, requiring that the walls be painted. If drywall or large patches of filler are being used to prepare the walls, a coat of sealer or primer should be applied before the color coat.

Locate and mark the wall studs on the floor and ceiling as a reference for attaching the new cabinetry.

Floors
If you plan to replace your floor, the time to prepare for it is Before installing the cabinets and permanent appliances. Ceramic tile floors are usually placed before the installation of cabinets while vinyl flooring can be laid either before or after the cabinets are in place. If the new floor will go directly on top of the existing one, it is very important to fill any areas that may have dipped, buckled or bulged, as well as any holes or gouges, and nail down protruding boards. Remove glue or paint that may have spilled. Countersink nail and screw heads that are sticking up above the surface. If the old floor is embossed or has dips and/or hollows in it, these should be filled in with cement filler using a 5 to 10-inch wide putty knife.

Water damaged floors must be repaired before laying down a new floor. You will need to remove the existing flooring to expose the damaged subfloor. Damaged portions of sub-flooring must be replaced. Should you find the entire sub floor to be too badly damaged for salvage, it will be best to lay new one. This can be laid directly on top of the existing floor.

The Order of Installation
These instructions are to be used as a guide but you should always follow the specific manufacturer’s instructions where there are deviations. Putting the kitchen together should occur in a logical sequence.

1. Primer and paint
2. Ceramic tile, vinyl or hardwood flooring
3. Wall cabinets
4. Base cabinets and islands
5. Cabinet doors, drawers and hardware
6. Plywood base for tile countertops
7. Recessed sink
8. Counter tops - wood, marble, tile
9. Surface mounted sink & fittings
10. Disposal
11. Dishwasher
12. Ice-maker connection
13. Over the range hood/vent
14. Cook top
15. Wall oven and microwave
16. Vinyl Flooring
17. Range
18. Refrigerator, freezer, trash compactor & icemaker
19. Lighting fixtures
20. Finishing touches - trim

    Note: Hardwood flooring and ceramic tile are always laid before cabinets are installed while vinyl flooring can be placed after the cabinetry is in place.

Most Common Mistakes

1. Not installing level or plumb,
2. Not attaching to studs,
3. Damaging or marring cabinets,
4. Not aligning cabinet doors,
5. Damaging the walls during installation,
6. Not cutting sink opening to proper dimension,
7. Drop-in appliances not properly fitted and installed,
8. Not making exact fits and cuts, or
9. Not installing all needed utilities.

Whenever installing stock cabinets, accurate measurements are critical to assure a snug fit. Custom made cabinetry is usually sold with a warranty conditional on having the cabinets installed by the dealer. In fact, the dealer will probably send someone out to make their own measurements.

Most ready-made cabinets come with a scribe allowance at the edges to allow you to adapt them to irregular walls. Scribing simply involves running a strip of masking tape along the side to be scribed; then, positioning the cabinet. (See Fig. J) Set the points of a pencil compass to the width of the widest gap between the side of the cabinet and the wall. Run the compass down the wall and the irregularities will be pencil marked on the tape. Now you can plane or sand down to the line so the cabinet will rest flush against the wall. If the scribe edge is not included on your cabinets or if your cabinets go all the way to the ceiling, plan on trimming the edges with a small piece of molding.

It is easier to install the upper wall cabinets first because you have room to work with them. Since they will hang from the wall, you must make certain they are securely attached.

Before installing any of our new cabinets, remove all the drawers, doors and hardware and label them as to their original locations for quick reassembly. This will make the units much lighter a n more manageable.

1. Use a chalk line to mark the position of the wall studs on the walls from ceiling to floor.
2. Measure the height of the base cabinets. If your floor is not level, measure from the highest point. Add to that measurement the thickness oft e counter top. Measure this distance up from the floor and draw a horizontal line across the wall. Use a level to assure this line will be true horizontal. This will indicate the surface of the counter top.
3. Measure to another point above the line to where the bottom of the upper cabinet will rest (usually 18′ to 19″ above your 1st line) and draw another horizontal line across the wall. This line (approximately 54 inches above the floor) should also be made with a level to assure it is true horizontal and parallel to the line for the counter top.
4. Nail a temporary l x 2 ledger board to the wall so that the top of the board is even with the line for the upper cabinets.
   Be sure you are nailing into the studs. Now mark the cabinet widths along the length of the ledger strip.
5. You will need to make a few temporary jacks to support the wall cabinets while you attach them to the wall. The total length of the jack should reach from the floor to the bottom of the upper cabinets. Wide blocks of wood nailed to both ends of a 2 x 4 work well for this purpose. Put the jacks into position near the ledger.
6. Attach the cabinet units together so that the faces are flush. Slide a level down the entire length of the cabinets, adding a shim where there is a gap or to bring it up to level. Place your level front to back on the top of the cabinet to check for plumb - a again shimming if necessary. Then, screw the entire length o cabinets into the wall with the 2 - inch screws through the top cleat and into the wall studs. often, due to some unevenness in the wall, there will be gaps between the back of the cabinet and the wall. To avoid pulling your cabinets out of kilter as you position them to the wall, shim the gaps at the fastening point (where the stud is located) before screwing the cabinet into place.
7. Island cabinets must have the individual units screwed together and laced into position before leveling and plumbing on all four sides. I the base is separate, level and plumb it. Then, fasten it to the floor With toe nails or angle brackets. Place and anchor the cabinets to the base. When installing an island unit, it is important to square it to the cabinets along the wall and to the wall itself, as well as lining it up properly with the overhead fixtures (stove vent or lighting). Measure off on both ceiling and floor to determine the exact location.
8. When readying the cabinets for installation, we recommend you first prepare those cabinets that will house a hood/vent, ducts and plumbing: Place the cabinet upside down on the floor with the hood in position upside down on the (bottom of the) cabinet. Trace the outline of the vent hole onto the base of the cabinet. Drill a starter hole for your sabre saw, then, cut around the outline and remove the cutout, Next, make a paper template of the ceiling or wall where the cabinet will be placed that shows where the end of the duct will enter. Place the template into position on the cabinet top or back and outline the duct hole. Again, drill a starter hole and cut out the circle with your sabre saw. Mark the location of the Wall studs on each cabinet’s hanging cleats; then, drill pilot holes for screws at these points. Self-drilling bugle head screws can also be used. These require no pre-drilling, except when using at face frames. With the doors removed, lift the first cabinet into position onto the ledger board and the temporary jacks. Check to see that the cabinet is both level and plumb in position and, if needed, add shims at the back of the cabinet to bring it into a plumb position.
9. Screw the 2-1/2 inch No. 8 flathead wood screws through the cleat at the back of the cabinet and into the wall studs - two at the top and two at the bottom. Use longer screws if needed to assure at least 1 -1/4″ to 1-3/4″ penetration into the studs. Each unit should be attached to a minimum of two studs. If only one stud is located behind a unit, add a toggle bolt as an additional fastener.
10. Attach each of the upper cabinets in this manner. Then, go back and screw the adjacent units together. When connecting adjoining cabinets, it may be necessary to loosen wall screws to allow the faces of the cabinet to be attached flush to each other. Use hand screws or a C clamp with soft wood screws between the jaws of the clamp and the face frame often cabinet to hold the units flush while you screw them together.
11. Recheck all for level and plumb.
12. Remove the jacks and the ledger board and repair any holes in the wall.
13. If your lower cabinets have freestanding bases, set the bases in position and level them, shimming if necessary. Also, use a framing square to square them where your base cabinets meet in a comer. When placing shim material, place a block of wood between the shim and the hammer so as not to damage the flooring. Then anchor them to the floor and place the cabinet units on top of them. Those cabinets without freestanding bases must be leveled and anchored in position as a unit. As you set the base cabinets in place, measure and leave room for our appliances, adding a 1/4 inch for clearance - more if you will be adding end panels. Check the position of your base units against the line on the wall, making certain the tops are equally below the line by the thickness of your counter top.

1. When spreading the adhesive for the counter top, it is most easily done with a paint tray and a mohair-covered paint roller. Lay the cut plastic laminate on the floor on top of newspapers and roll the contact cement on, covering the entire surface. Apply a slightly thicker coat of cement near the edges. Next, cover the counter surface and allow both to dry about 15 minutes or until the brown paper will not stick to the adhesive.

2. Wood dowels work better to keep the laminate from sticking to the cemented counter surface than brown par when laying the counter top. Place them at one foot intervals. Then lay the laminate, adhesive side down, on the wood dowels. Put the factory edge against the backsplash and set the tip of the diagonal cut into the comer. This corner is where you will begin.

3. Pull out the wood strip nearest the corner while pressing the laminate into position. Again, be sure the laminate is exactly where you want it. Use a sweeping motion so no air bubbles are trapped beneath the laminate. Work along the counter, pulling out strips of wood and pressing down the laminate. Then, immediately roll the surface with your rolling pin or hand roller, applying extra pressure near the edges.

4. When placing the second piece, make certain the diagonal seam at the corner is very tight and roll the seam thoroughly.

5. If the laminate fails to form a bond or creates a bubble at some point, place a piece of the brown wrapping paper over the spot and place a hot iron (set for cotton) on to of the paper until the laminate feels hot to the touch. he heat should soften the contact cement enough to regain some of its stickiness. Then use the roller again with a firm, steady pressure until the laminate has cooled.

6. Before router trimming the counter top, put masking tape around the newly laminated edges so as not to mar them. Router off the excess as you did with the edges, moving the router from left to right. Then, replace the bit with a 22 degree bevel bit and bevel the seam at the top of the counter moving, as always, left to right.

Tip: Practice this technique on some scrap before doing the final project.

7. Finish the bevels with a 14-inch single cut mill file. Apply pressure on the downward stroke. Check each angle with your finger tip to assure there are no rough edges that may later result in cracks. Inside corners are particularly prone to cracking if they are not filed smooth.

Installing a Hood Vent System in Kitchens.
Install the hood/vent before the range or cook top so that you can reach all connections easily.

1. Connect a section of 6 or 7 inch metal ducting to the duck pipe entering the cabinet and to the hood. If these holes are too close for a turn, you may need to have a sheet metal box with nailing flanges made to your specifications.

2. Lift the hood into position and trace the holes for attaching the unit with the screws provided.

3. Connect the wiring in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Connect the hood collar to the duct by tightening the metal collar provided or by wrapping duct tape around both collar and duct.

The kitchen is the one room where members of a family can be found eating, working on homework, talking on the phone or just hanging out with friends. The kitchen has always been the nerve center of the household, and never has the kitchen’s central role been more important than it is today. As the centerpiece of the home, there are some interesting alternatives for kitchen that go well beyond the norm. Our kitchen section contains a variety of home improvement options available to homeowners as well as advice on how to keep the busiest place in the house clean.An Introduction to Dismantling
If your remodeling job is at all extensive, you will need to set up a temporary kitchen in another part of the house. The location should be convenient and have access to water, allow you to keep foods cold and heat up meals. Sometimes portable appliances like a crock pot, electric frying pan and a microwave work best for this temporary arrangement if you are replacing your old appliances.

Most Common Mistakes:
Damaging the wall as you remove old cabinets,
Damaging counters, cabinets or floors you plan to reuse,
Not shutting off utilities before beginning work,
Getting dust and debris in adjoining rooms, and
Not estimating or allowing for enough time to remodel.

Before You Start
Box up everything that will not be used in your temporary kitchen. Label the boxes and store them out of the way.
Remove anything that isn’t nailed or screwed down. This includes drawers, lazy susan’s, spice racks, wall clocks, ornaments, etc. Place a protective cover over anything that must remain in place while you work.

Make arrangements for the removal of any refuse that may accumulate during the remodeling. if you must rent a dumpster, do so in plenty of time or have a pick up truck on hand for hauling the rubbish to the dump. if you plan to salvage the old cabinetry for a workshop or donation to a charitable cause, have a place ready for them to go as you take them out of your work area.

Before removing any major appliances, turn off all utilities. This can be done at the individual shut off valves for gas and water. If there are no shut off valves, you will have to turn off the main valve*. The main gas valve is usually located near the gas meter. Remember that, once you turn off the gas to the whole house, ALL pilot lights will have to be relit before they will work again. Without careful planning you may find yourself without hot water when you’re ready to clean up after a hard day’s work.

Disconnect uses or turn off circuits to the area in which you will be working. In older homes, the wiring may have been modified over the years and it may not be clear which circuits or fuses control specific areas. If you are unsure, turn off the main power or get professional assistance. Never take a chance with electricity! In addition, tape over the breakers so the won’t be turned on inadvertently. If you plan on upgrading your electrical system and adding new outlets and fixtures, it will be necessary to dismantle all existing outlets and fixtures.

Remove all light bulbs. Then, dismantle each fixture by using a screwdriver to unscrew the plate and the receptacle and pull the receptacle out of the box. Put wire nuts on any exposed wires for the interim. The bare copper wire is the ground and does not need to be capped.