Home Decoration

Organize your photos now and you’ll have more time for making photo-worthy memories.

The Photo Challenge
You’ve conquered desk disarray, shoe-closet stampedes, and kids’ clutter. You’re well on the way to a full year of succeeding in that New Year’s resolution to get organized!

Next stop: those drawers stuffed with photo-center envelopes, loose negatives, and stuck-together prints of people you can’t identify.

It never fails: You develop a roll of film, flip through the photos a couple of times, and toss them aside, intending to sort them in the future.

Later, when you’re on the hunt for a particular snapshot, you paw through overwhelming stacks of photos littered throughout the house or shoved into desk drawers, but the image you’re searching for seems to have disappeared.

The next time you pick up your developed film, spend an evening sorting the photos right away. Make it a family event — share laughs and reminisce about that shot of the dog eating your son’s birthday cake — and you’ll be on the right track for keeping those precious memories safe, organized, and easily accessible.

Sorting Tips
Invest in a large set of matching photo albums and photo boxes. This will make it easy to organize your photos over the years.

Go over photos when you first receive them.

While you sort, record an identifying description, such as the date or who’s in the photo, on the back of each photo.

Write on photo paper with a light touch, and make certain you use an acid-free, photo-safe pencil or pen (available at art-supply and crafts stores).

Don’t keep bad exposures, blurry shots, or bloopers you won’t look at again. Throw away any photos you’d rather not remember.

Nab your favorites to put in an album or frame right away; pick out images to give to friends.

Make a list of any reprints or enlargements you need and take it to the photo store next time you’re out and about.

Boxing Options
Box It Up
You can use specially made photo boxes to create a filing system. Transfer prints from the photo-center packets to less bulky acid-free envelopes.

Clearly label each envelope with dates and any other identifying description — Road trip to Yellowstone or Christmas 2004, for instance. Then separate the envelopes into specific categories for storage.

Label tabbed dividers to further organize into subcategories, perhaps by year or family member.

The key is to create categories that will fit all of your photos and that you’ll remember when the time comes to search out that certain shot.

Tips to Protect Photos
Handle with Care
To protect your precious photos, keep these points in mind:

Temperature, humidity, and light affect photos. Stash stored photos and photo albums away from sunlight in a cool, dry area.
Hang framed photos on a wall that won’t get the direct sunlight that fades photos quickly. Or use blinds and draperies to control the light.
Avoid storing photos in basements or attics, where temperatures and humidity fluctuate.Oils on your fingers degrade photos and negatives, so handle them by the edges only. For additional protection, wear clean white cotton gloves.
Paper clips, rubber bands, glue, and tape shouldn’t come in contact with photos, unless specifically designed as safe for photos.

Plastic pages, bags, and boxes that aren’t acid-free may release harmful vapors that permanently damage photos. These plastic products are considered safe: Polypropylene, Polyethylene, Mylar, Tyvek, and Cellulose Triacetate. Before you buy, check labels on photo boxes, mats, and albums to make sure they’re acid-free and photo safe.

Always frame photos using acid-free matting materials.
Keep photos away from wood, plywood, chipboard, rubber cement, animal glue, shellac, contact cement, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), pressure sensitive tape, and porous marking pens.

Adhesives may chemically interact with images and ruin the photos if you try to remove them from an album at a later date. Use only specially made acid-free glue sticks, markers, and corners on your photos.

Going Digital
Label and Backup
Even if you’re not handling negatives or reprints, you still need to organize and protect your digital photos. Develop a system for storing digital images and stick with it.

Label digital photos the moment you upload them onto your computer. Assign each image a specific name and date you’ll recognize. It may help to begin each file name consistently (OurWeddingOct04-cake003.jpg), following with a more descriptive title and a photo number.

Categorize digital photos into folders and subfolders on your hard drive. Or use software designed to archive images into computerized photo albums.

Protect digital files from menacing computer viruses and unreliable technology by backing up your image files or burning them to CDs.

Completely make over your bedroom without changing colors, fabrics, or furniture! You can do it all with lighting.

Bedside Basics
When lighting a bedroom, you want to create an atmosphere of quiet relaxation, while providing bright spots for reading and other activities. Develop a combination of general and task lighting based on these examples, and remember that dimmer controls let you vary the light to suit different moods and tasks.

Swing-arm or other bedside fixtures cast a peaceful light and illuminate bedtime tasks. If you want to add mood lighting without making the room too bright, supplement your bedside light with soft sources such as a fireplace or candles. A dimmer switch can also give you more control over the room’s brightness.

When your bed is the focal point in the room, create drama with recessed downlights near the head of the bed. Separate controls allow snoozing and reading simultaneously on opposite sides of the bed. Table lamps elsewhere in the room will help make the space usefully bright.

Active people love a room awash in a bright, warm Active people love a room awash in a bright, warm glow. This design combines an overhead fixture, which casts a wide beam of downward light, and uplight fixtures that illuminate shady corners. By wiring the overhead light and the uplights separately, you can have some or all of them on at one time.

Highlight the View
To show off attractive artwork, wall-hung collections, or areas of interest other than the bed, consider lighting that highlights those areas. These track fixtures, for instance, are easy to adjust, creating dimension with shadow. Be sure to install additional sources of ambient lighting to boost the room’s overall function.

Avoid unflattering and distracting shadows at your dressing table with lights on each side or one light directly above the table. Side fixtures should have shades that direct light either up or down at a 45-degree angle from the wall.

Types of Light
Knowing the different kinds of light will help you choose and arrange fixtures wisely.

Ambient Lighting
The most basic and practical form of illumination, ambient lights mimic the qualities of natural lighting. Often directed from a central, overhead fixture, they create light that surrounds you uniformly. It’s best to control this type of light with a dimmer switch, which allows you to adjust the light according to time of day or task.

Most bedrooms start with one ambient light source, which is a good beginning, but you’ll need other types of lighting to create dramatic highlights around the bedroom. One drawback to ambient lighting is that it often creates shadows in front of you, as you work or read with the ambient light source at your back.

Task Lighting
Intended to illuminate a task or a specific area, this bright light is generally work-oriented (reading, paying bills, needle-crafting). To generate task lighting, choose a fixture with a shade that focuses the light onto one spot. If the shade is open at the top as well as the bottom, it can supplement the ambient lighting.

Accent Lighting
If you get a headache from your task lighting, your ambient light is probably too dim and causing an uncomfortable contrast. Remedy this by increasing the wattage of the bulb in your ambient light, installing more lighting, or covering your work surface with a light-color covering to reflect the task light rather than absorb it.

Used to create drama, this light type also is known as point-source lighting because it focuses attention on something important. It does not have room-illuminating qualities, so it should be combined with ambient and perhaps task lighting. Select a fixture with a strong beam of light that can be directed onto a focal point such as art or a vase of flowers.

Kinetic Lighting
Kinetic means motion, and this kind of light flickers and dances to create drama and interest. It can come from candles, mirror balls, or lava lamps, for instance, but the hypnotic quality of candlelight or a wood fire is more conducive to a bedroom than a strobe light would be. Just be sure to place candles on a nonflammable surface and in a place where they won’t be knocked over.

The Right Height for Lights
Don’t underestimate the proper placement of task lighting. It can save you eyestrain, headaches, and accidentally pairing blue socks with black pants. Here are some preferred placement measurements for different task lights. (Adjust them accordingly if you’re a great deal taller or shorter than the average person.)

Abide by this general rule: The diameter of the beam spread out of the bottom of the shade for reading and writing should be about 16 inches.

For a dressing table, have 2 lights 36 inches apart (on either side of the mirror you use) and about 15 inches above the base of the table.
Similarly, for lighting a dresser whose top is used for grooming, place 2 lights 36 inches apart (again, on either side of your mirror). Assuming the dresser reaches your waist, the lights should rise 22 inches from the dresser top.

For bedside reading lamps, the bottom of the shade should be 20 inches above the level of your bed. If your night table is extremely tall or short, you may need to choose lamps to compensate.

At a desk, work lamps should be 15 inches above the desk’s surface, whether they are mounted on the wall or sitting on the desk.

Advice on planning the perfect master suite.

Architects and designers create spaces following a basic design rule: Take advantage of your room’s good points. Use these ideas to help make the most of your space.

1. Plan for the bed. Provide a blank wall suitable for a bed and oriented toward the best view the room provides. Allow a wall 14 to 15 feet wide if you’ll have a king-size bed flanked by side tables. Placing the headboard against an interior wall frees up exterior walls for ample windows.
2. Make the most of rooflines. Placing a master bedroom on a new upper level creates a private getaway, but it can create challenges when designing rooflines and integrating the space to maximize the impact. One alternative is to expose angular ceilings for added design interest. In this house, for example, careful planning gave the master suite four dramatic bisecting gables.
3. Control sunlight. Give adequate thought to managing daylight at different times of day and year. Movable daylight controls, such as draperies and shutters, provide flexibility, but you can also take advantage of awnings and deep eaves that shade windows.
4. Build it in. The architect regularly looks for opportunities to design custom built-ins. It’s efficient storage space and eliminates the need to bump out into the room with furniture. Many people prefer built-ins to furniture as it gives a room an all-of-a-piece look.
5. Define spaces with storage. Use storage to separate spaces within a master suite. Try a configuration composed of a bedroom and a bath separated by a short hall fitted with two closets.

Bedroom Lighting

Bedside Basics
When lighting a bedroom, you want to create an atmosphere of quiet relaxation, while providing bright spots for reading and other activities. Develop a combination of general and task lighting based on these examples, and remember that dimmer controls let you vary the light to suit different moods and tasks.

Swing-arm or other bedside fixtures cast a peaceful light and illuminate bedtime tasks. If you want to add mood lighting without making the room too bright, supplement your bedside light with soft sources such as a fireplace or candles. A dimmer switch can also give you more control over the room’s brightness.

When your bed is the focal point in the room, create drama with recessed downlights near the head of the bed. Separate controls allow snoozing and reading simultaneously on opposite sides of the bed. Table lamps elsewhere in the room will help make the space usefully bright.

Active people love a room awash in a bright, warm glow. This design combines an overhead fixture, which casts a wide beam of downward light, and uplight fixtures that illuminate shady corners. By wiring the overhead light and the uplights separately, you can have some or all of them on at one time.

Draperies
Whether your look is formal or casual, contemporary or traditional, use draperies or curtains to accentuate your decorating scheme.

Normally lined, pleated, and floor-length, drapery panels often attach by hooks to a traverse rod. A cord mechanism that hangs behind either the left or right panel draws both of the panels open and closed.

Because of the way a traverse rod works, drapery panels don’t always retract as compactly as curtain panels do, so if a window has minimal wall space around it, you may want to consider curtains or another type of treatment.

Before you purchase draperies, check their stackback, the technical term for the width of a window treatment when fully retracted. Very wide windows require more fabric, resulting in a wider stackback. In this case you’ll need to increase the length of the traverse rod to keep the stacked fabric from covering the window glass when the drapes are fully open.

Because draperies are typically pleated and more tailored in appearance, they generally lend a more traditional look to a decorating scheme. However, newer pleating styles can offer a more updated and casual look for contemporary interiors. Look for fan pleats attached to simple rods with clips and rings.

Fabric selections can dress a drapery panel either up or down. Velvet, damask, and silk generally require a more traditional or formal room, while linen and cotton fabrics offer a more casual look.

Curtains
Curtains are typically lightweight, unlined, and suspended from a rod by simple tabs, rings, or a rod-pocket casing. Most can be drawn back by hand to create a simple, casual-looking window treatment.

Basic curtain panels are easy to make and install. They may cover the full length of the window or reach from ceiling to floor. Lining the panels and adding decorative accessories and top treatments can make curtains look as elegant as any drapery panel.

Cafe curtains cover only the lower portion of the window, allowing light and views through the top half of the window.

Panels shirred on rods at both the top and bottom are somewhat stationary and are good solutions for swinging doors and for casement windows that swing in.

 A hot tub is a large tub or small pool full of heated water and used for soaking, relaxation, hydrotherapy, reading, or meditation. Hot tubs are frequently located out-of-doors although they may be sheltered against sun, rain, wind, or snow.

There are essentially three different styles of hot tubs:
1. Simple wooden-staved soaking tubs
2. Fiberglass-reinforced plastic spas (whirlpool tubs)
3. Bathtub-sized indoor units

Hot-tub basics: The spa/hot tub market has gone entirely to free-standing spas. These units are all self-contained with tub, motors, filters, and heaters all in one unit. This allows all parts to be UL approved.

Installation: Installation is also simple an owner only needs a garden hose and power supply. Literally, you can just hose it, heat it and get in. Initial costs and operating costs are also less.

On rare occasions, a homeowner might want to install a built-in ground tub. These are much more expensive and rare. However with major remodeling jobs, you may want the additional aesthetics of a tub that is integrated into you master design.

Spa materials: The spa industry has gone with man-made materials for their spas. You’ll occasionally find plaster, tile and wood spas in older homes, but these tubs are often difficult to maintain.

The most common material is an acrylic tub with a fiberglass back. These tubs are very strong, easy to care for, insulated for heat and come in a variety of colors and styles. Centrex, a tough thermal plastic, is another material used in tubs. However, it’s not as popular because it comes in one color: white.

Acrylic tubs with ABS plastic and backed with foam or fiber is the third kind of popular tub. Its non-porous surface makes it easy to clean. And it’s also very strong.

Sizes: Hot tubs come in a variety of sizes. The most common tub holds 450 to 500 gallons of water and comfortably seats six adults. For those private moments, you can find smaller, two-person tubs that hold about 250 gallons of water, however you may want to consider a four-person tub. On average, a six-person tub will cost you $12 a month for heating. And the industry recommends you change your water every 6 months, so you’ll see a 500-gallon increase on your water bill for those two months out of the year.

Tub placement: About 90 percent of all owners install their spas outside, partly because outdoor installation and maintenance is less expensive. If you want to install your tub inside, consider adding a ventilation system to your room. The tub will increase the heat and humidity inside the room, which can cause mildew and rot. Proper ventilation fans will take away the humidity and chlorine smell.

Features: Hot tub and spa design has come a long way. Today’s models include lifestyle features like special lighting, stereo and speaker combinations and customized head rests, all features you’ll want to consider when choosing the right hot tub. Exercise swim jets are good for people with physical ailments or to soothe tired muscles at the end of a hard day. (Remember that lights and stereos will have to be hooked up to your electrical system, too, and that electricity and water don’t mix.)

Ozonator: An ozonator is a device that sprays ozone gas into spa water, an extremely effective way to kill off bacteria in the water, keep the water clearer longer than bromide or chlorine and not give off that chemical smell. (The downside is that the ozonator has to be in operation a couple of hours every day and that you must use other chemicals as well.)

Winterize first: Many unnecessary hot tub problems are caused by ineffective preparations for winter, which is why you should talk with your service professional about winterization techniques or (especially) if you shut the unit down in the colder months. Be very careful if you do; any water left inside the hot tub shell, pipes or equipment, when frozen, will expand and crack your unit. A winter cover over your regular cover will help keep your unit in shape during colder temperatures.

Check filter: In the most-abused hot tub category is the filter, which keeps your system clear of everything from hair to bacteria, and today’s models include programmable filtering functions for busy people who don’t have to the time to keep up with their system.

Wallpaper - A Tradition of Well-Dressed Rooms
Beautiful walls have long been a part of the decorative history of the home. Whether it’s the ancient artist painting hieroglyphics on cave walls, the pioneer stenciling patterns inside a cabin or a contemporary home adding the beauty and texture of wallpaper, we all share the universal urge to surround ourselves with beauty, color and style.

Beautiful walls are decorated - never bare - and wallpaper is the perfect choice for the best-dressed walls. Plain, painted and plastered walls are no matches for the beauty, durability and personality wallpaper conveys. Whatever you want to convey, there is wallpaper to express it.

From restoring a vintage house to its original grandeur to making a stark, contemporary dwelling more comfortable, today’s wallpapers offer traditional elegance, country charm, or contemporary sophistication - whatever look you desire. And thanks to modern technology, today’s wallpapers are durable, inexpensive and easy to install.

Color Basics
A new color scheme can dramatically enhance the beauty and livability of a room. Without changing furniture, carpet or lighting, a fresh breath of color can transform an ordinary living space into a most extraordinary home.

Color is a personal choice, so always base the colors in your home on the colors you enjoy and that make you feel good. Don’t worry if the colors you choose aren’t “in,” — choose the colors that fit your personal style.

If you aren’t sure of which colors you like best or are looking for ways to use color expressively, fashion and home magazines, wallpaper retailers, decorating centers or the home of a favorite friend can all spark new ideas.

The most important fact to remember when decorating with color is that color makes a profound impact on the mood of a room and also on the people in it. Choose colors that create the feeling you want to create.

Building a Color Scheme
Most rooms design use one of the three basic color schemes:

Single color - uses one color in varying shades. This color scheme is easy to develop and creates a restful feeling in a room.

Related color - uses colors that are next to each other on the color wheel, for example, green and blue. This color scheme creates a quiet effect; light related colors are relaxing while dark related colors are elegant and formal.

Complementary color - a mix of two or three colors located across the color wheel from each other, like blue and yellow. The most dramatic effects can be achieved using this color scheme.

The Color Wheel
The color wheel is a common tool used in home decorating as it shows how colors are related. Using the color wheel, we can define the basic terms of color, which include:

• Accent Color - A contrasting hue used to add visual interest to a color scheme.
• Color Scheme - A group of colors used to create a mood or effect.
• Complementary Colors - Colors located opposite each other on the color wheel.
• Contrasting Colors - Colors that have at least three colors between them on a color wheel.
• Cool Colors - Blues, greens, purples and grays.
• Desaturated Colors - Color made less brilliant by adding white.
• Hue - A color.
• Neutral Colors - Subtle variations of black, white and gray.
• Primary Colors - Red, blue and yellow.
• Related Colors - Two colors next to one another on the color wheel.
• Saturated Colors - Bright hues; color that is not mixed with black, white or gray.
• Secondary Colors - Colors formed by mixing two primary colors together. These colors include orange, green and purple.
• Shade - A darker hue variation created by adding black or gray.
• Tint - A lighter hue variation created by adding white.
• Warm Colors - Reds, oranges, browns and yellows.

Walls
The walls of a home are an important, albeit difficult, element for any doityourself to take on. A good drywall job can create a smooth and uniform series of walls and ceilings. The application of different textures and insulation can become a llittle tricky be tricky though. When it comes to the insulation of the walls most people are comfortable enough with to try installing on their own. Our walls section explores the varied forms and designs that can create an individual look and feel for a home and provides easy pratical ways to install in insulation. Also included in this section is a complete walkthrough on how to install a wall and information on different kinds of insulation.

How to Repair Damaged Plaster Walls
If you have all the necessary tools, your only expense is the cost of perlited plaster and ready-mix joint compound, both of which are affordable and in most hardware stores. Consisting of finely crushed gypsum rock and volcanic glass, perlited plaster is both lightweight and durable

Before Plastering: Excess moisture in the wall or room can affect the plastering, so make sure to fix any leaks or causes of moisture several weeks before plastering. The best temperature for plastering is between 55 degrees and 70 degrees. Keep the room at this temperature a least 24 hours before plastering to ensure that the walls are completely dry. The room must stay at this temperature during plastering and until the plaster has completely set. These repair tips apply only for plaster walls with lath backing and will not work for plaster board walls.

Similar steps are taken in repairing holes and cracks. Even the supporting wood frame area behind the plastered area, called the lath, can be easily repaired. Fixing holes without a lath is another easy job that just takes the right tools and a little skill.

Mixing: Follow manufacturer’s instructions when mixing the plaster with water. Larger holes will need a thicker plaster mixture than smaller holes.

Safety First: When plastering, wear safety goggles, a long sleeve shirt and cotton work gloves for eye and skin protection. Wear a sanding respirator to prevent inhalation while breaking dried plaster or when mixing.

Repairing Holes

Tools and Materials You Need:

• Cold chisel
• Ball peen hammer
• Utility knife
• Paintbrush
• Latex bonding agent (or spray bottle and water)
• Regular formulation perlited plaster (sized for your repair job)
• 10-inch wallboard knife
• Spray bottle and water
• Ready-mix joint compound
• Sponge
• Sandpaper
• Interior primer

Chip Away Damaged Plaster: Remove the damaged plaster by using a cold chisel and a ball peen hammer to chip the damaged plaster off the wall. Be sure not to chip too hard or you will damage the lath, which is the wood structure that supports the plaster. Using a utility knife, smooth the inside edges of the hole.

Apply Latex Bonding Agent: To make sure the dry plaster and lath do not absorb too much moisture, use a brush to apply a latex bonding agent to the lath and exposed plaster. Ask your hardware store for the right bonding agent for plaster. If you do not have latex bonding agent, simply dampen the area well by spraying water with a spray bottle.

Apply and Scratch Plaster: Apply a layer of 3/8-inch thick plaster using a 10-inch wallboard knife. To help the second coat stick well, cross scratch the first coat of plaster as it begins to set.

Apply Second Layer: After letting the first coat dry for 24 hours, use a spray bottle to dampen the area with water. Distribute a second 3/8-inch thick layer of plaster over the hole and cross scratch as before. This layer must also dry for 24 hours.

Distribute Joint Compound: Apply the joint compound with a 10-inch wallboard knife after the second layer is dry. This final layer must be applied very thin to blend with the wall and must dry for 24 hours. Once completely dry, wipe the area with a damp sponge and sand until it is smooth.

Prime the Area: Paint the area with interior primer. After completely dry, the area can be finished with paint or wall covering.

Repairing Cracks

Tools and Materials You Need:

• Utility knife
• Spray bottle and water
• -Bag of regular formulation perlited plaster (sized for your repair job)
• 4-inch wallboard knife
• Fine closed-coat sandpaper (150 grit)
• Sponge
• Interior primer

Smooth and Apply Plaster: Smooth cracked area with a utility knife, cutting away any jagged edges and dampen the area with a spray bottle and water. Apply a layer of plaster to the crack with a 4-inch wallboard knife, making sure it is even with the wall. Crack repairs usually need only 1 layer of plaster. Allow the area to dry for 24 hours.

Sand and Prime: Using a piece of fine closed-coat sandpaper (150 grit), sand the plastered area until it is smooth. Wipe the patch with a damp sponge and paint the area with interior primer, letting it dry completely. Finish the area by painting or covering with wallpaper.

Repairing Damaged Lath

Tools and Materials You Need:

• Wood chisel (or mallet)
• Metal lath (similar to heavy screen)
• 6-inch piece of wire
• Wooden dowel
• Bag of regular formulation perlited plaster (sized for your repair job)
• Wire cutters
• Ready-mix joint compound
• Closed-coat sandpaper (150 fine grit)

Insert Metal Lath in the Hole: If the lath behind the hole is damaged, cut the damaged wood out with a wood chisel or a mallet. Take a piece of metal lath, which is similar to heavy screen, and insert a wire loop at the center of the lath. Holding the wire tightly, push the metal lath into the hole and pull the wire so that the metal lath is pressed firmly against the inside of the hole.

Apply Plaster Over Lath: Twist the metal wire tightly around a wooden dowel making sure the dowel is pressed firmly against the wall. Apply a coat of plaster and cross scratch it as it begins to set.

Distribute Joint Compound: Once the area is dry, remove the wooden dowel and cut the wire with wire cutters. Apply your thin layer of joint compound and let it dry for 24 hours. The area can be painted or wallpapered after sanding and wiping down with a damp sponge.

Repairing a Hole without Lath

Tools and Materials You Need:

• Wallboard saw
• Gypsum lath (or 3/8-inch thick wallboard)
• Power screw driver
• Wallboard screws
• Regular formulation perlited plaster
• Trowel
• Ready-mix joint compound
• Spray bottle and water
• 10-inch wallboard knife
• Small-cell polyurethane sponge
• Fine-closed sandpaper
• Paintbrush
• Interior primer

Install Wallboard Over the Hole: If there is a hole in your plaster without any lath behind the hole, you need to install a piece of wallboard or gypsum lath over the area without lath before plastering. Cut the wallboard or gypsum lath to fit the area without the lath. Fasten the corners of the gypsum lath or wallboard to the existing lath behind the plaster. Use a power screw driver and wallboard screws.

Apply Plaster: Using a trowel, apply plaster over the hole covering the patch and filling the entire hole. Let the area dry for 24 hours.

Apply Joint Compound: Use a 10-inch wallboard knife to apply a thin layer of joint compound about 5 inches beyond the edge of the hole and let it dry for 24 hours. Wipe the area with a damp sponge and sand. Using a paintbrush, coat the area with a layer of interior primer and let it dry completely before painting or wallpapering.

When we think of a basement, a dark, unwelcoming room usually comes to mind. Basements don’t have to be stuck with this unpleasant reputation. The look and feel of basements can be changed with a simple remodel. Having a furnished basement can add value and comfort to your home, but if you have a basement that’s in need of some dressing up, you’re likely to encounter a maze of pipes and ducts that you have to deal with first. Our basement section takes you step-by-step through on how to spice up your basement.

Basement Waterproofing - Water, Water Everywhere - But Not in Your Basement!
It can be one of the most disheartening experiences a homeowner ever faces—to walk down the stairs to the basement after a heavy rainstorm to find water, water everywhere. What can you do?

Using a quality water-proofing coating is a key strategy. However, take note: Even the best waterproofing coating may fail to stop moisture if the block walls are not in sound condition. Brush away loose mortar and broken block; remove dirt, grease, dust and other surface contaminants; wire-brush or sandblast old paint; use a quick-dry cement to patch cracks, holes and floor/wall joints.

Also, be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions. The most frequent error customers make is failing to apply a waterproofing coating at the spread-rate specified by the manufacturer. If the coating is too thin, it will not stop moisture seepage. In cases of excessive water seepage, a second coat may be needed. During the application, the coating must be worked into the masonry pores.

Though some paint manufacturers use the terms interchangeably, water-repellent and waterproofing coatings are not the same. A water-repellent coating system is an exterior coating system for above-grade concrete or masonry. It temporarily repels water, but it is not intended to prevent the passage of moisture under hydrostatic pressure. Some repellents are film-forming; others act by filling surface pores to prevent moisture movement.

Waterproofing coating systems, on the other hand, are intended to prevent the passage of water under hydrostatic pressure. These film-forming coatings are formulated for above and/or below grade and for interior and/or exterior application.

Hydrostatic pressure may be caused by several conditions. Rain runoff flowing toward a house, high water table and faulty gutter systems are the most common causes of hydrostatic pressure on a foundation. Wind-driven rain is the most common cause of hydrostatic pressure on an exterior, above-grade wall.

Sometimes interior condensation can be mistaken for seepage due to hydrostatic pressure. To distinguish between the two, tape a piece of aluminum foil to the inside of the foundation wall. Remove the foil after several days. If the wall side of the foil is wet, seepage is the problem. If the room side is wet, condensation is the problem. (Both problems can occur at the same time.)

While a dehumidifier can solve the condensation problem, a quality waterproofing coating is needed to stop the seepage. Not all coatings are intended for waterproofing. Most acrylic latex paints, for instance, are not formulated for this job.

Fireplaces are consistently rated as one of the top amenities desired by home owners. In fact, fireplaces have one of the highest investment returns of any addition to your home. However, a fireplace can be just a black hole in the wall until the homeowner decides to framed it with decorative elements. A beautiful mantel makes the fireplace a focal point and sets the style for a room. Our fireplace section takes you throught the do’s and dont’s of putting in and maintaining a fireplace. From installation to decoration our experts give you advice on how to make your fireplace a warm and inviting place to snuggle on those cold.
winter nights.

Tips on How to Procure Low or No Cost Building Materials
A case in point was a left over sewer pipe section several blocks from our home in a new subdivision. That pipe became the central element in a combination fire pit and barbecue. I buried the 5’ long by 4’ diameter section in our backyard near an existing raised planter bed. I left the top sticking out just enough to brick the exterior with discarded Roman bricks I found in another nearby housing development. I filled the pipe to within 2’ of the top with crushed rock. Next I poured a 3” concrete floor with an oversized wine bottle in the center. Once the concrete hardened I broke the wine bottle, leaving an opening of about 6” in diameter in the floor. I then bought a length of 1/2” stainless steel square bar and had a local welding shop weld it into a circular grill to fit inside the lip of the concrete pipe. Extending the planter box to partially surround the new fire pit and putting a 2”x8” cap on top formed the seating area. I adjusted my impulse sprinkler to sweep over the pit which washed all but big clinkers down into the crushed rock inside the pipe.

Having doubts about finding a left over sewer pipe around your area? Maybe so, but have you thought about making contacts with your town’s administration? I have found our public works director happy to give me surplus materials.

I just had a truck load of broken up sidewalk dropped off at our neighbors unused lot. I in turn used this material to make a 20’x26’x 22” retaining wall for a garden pond. I have gotten enough bricks from local demolition projects to build two patios and over 200’ of walkways through our property. Another good source is local contractors. I built a 20’ x 10’ x 8’ arbor from beams left over from an upscale residential development. But my best finds have come from poking around new residential developments. The large decorative rocks that will form the waterfall for my pond I found in a discarded pile in a new development just 5 miles from our property. That was a real find, as here in Florida you have to buy rock from dealers at around $240 per ton.

Advantages of Gas Fireplace Inserts
Gas fireplace inserts are used to convert existing wood burning fireplaces (both pre-fab and masonry) to a sealed gas appliance. They consist of a gas log set installed into a steel or cast-iron heat exchanger and are usually sealed on the front with glass.

Many of these units have fans to move the heat, and are also available with remote controls, wall switches or wall-mounted thermostats. Converting your existing masonry or factory-built fireplace to gas is an extremely worthwhile investment.

Direct vent: This insert applies a sealed combustion direct vent system to heat the home efficiently and maintain indoor air quality. It’s designed to address negative air pressure problems in “tightly-sealed” homes. Combustion air is acquired from outside the home through a dual (co-linear) venting system, eliminating the heat loss associated with conventional chimneys. Uses existing masonry or factory built metal chimney as a housing for a flexible co-linear liner.

Natural vent: Uses existing masonry or factory built metal chimney as a housing for a flexible liner. Uses room air for combustion and exhausts to the outside of the home via a flexible liner installed in the chimney.

Adding a skylight is one of the quickest and easiest ways to make any room of your home lighter and brighter, adding an open and airy feeling. Skylights produce a kind of top-lit architectural drama that windows often can’t match. Moreover, dollar-for-dollar, they’ll usually bring in more light than windows. Installing a skylight in a room that has a finished ceiling with an attic or crawl space above it involves planning both a ceiling opening and a roof opening. Our skylight section takes you step-by-step through how to install a skylight. Plus some useful information on the efficiency of skylights. Check out the feature article on the pro’s and con’s of skylights versus windows.Skylights and windows are often mentioned in the same breath as a fix for dark rooms, as if poking a big hole someplace is all that really matters.

Yet these aren’t interchangeable solutions for the same problem. Skylights and windows have very different daylighting characteristics, as well as a radically different aesthetic both inside and outside. A closer look may help you make the right choice for your home.

First, a rundown of basic differences: A window is placed vertically in a wall, while a skylight is mounted parallel to the roof plane or else raised above it on an extension known as a “curb.” While windows are almost invariably fitted with glass, the majority of modern skylights are glazed with acrylic or polycarbonate plastic in tints ranging from clear to translucent white to a dark smoked color. One exception is the so-called roof window, which is a type of flat skylight glazed with glass and usually arranged to open.

In terms of solar efficiency, a well-oriented window will generally be better attuned to seasonal changes than a skylight. Since window openings are vertical, they admit more of the low-angled sun in winter when it’s most welcome, while blocking much of the high-angled summer sun to prevent excessive heat gain. In fact, with the proper external shading, a window can be “fine-tuned” to admit full sun on the shortest days of winter, yet be completely shaded on long summer days.

Your typical low-pitched skylight, alas, has just the opposite trait: In winter, when the sun is low, it cuts off a great deal of desirable sunlight, while in summer, it lets the high-angled sun come blasting in, potentially overheating rooms. Using tinted glazing and deep, light-diffusing wells can help to compensate for this shortcoming, though neither is really a remedy.

Despite these shortcomings, skylights produce a kind of top-lit architectural drama that windows often can’t match. Moreover, dollar-for-dollar, they’ll usually bring in more light than windows. So which is right for your home?

If the object is simply to brighten a room for the least expense, or to provide some dramatic toplighting, a skylight will do the trick. On the other hand, if you’d like to fine-tune a room to be brighter and warmer in winter while keeping it cooler in the summer, a new or enlarged window or glass door may be a better choice.

Aesthetically, deciding between windows and skylights is more clear-cut. Today’s ubiquitous plastic bubble skylights weren’t in general use until the early 1960s; hence, they invariably look “wrong” on earlier homes, and should be a last resort. If you have a home predating the 60s and still have your heart set on using some form of skylight, consider using roof windows, which have a lower profile, and place them where they won’t be visible from the street. Better yet, challenge yourself by adding light the way the era’s architects would have—with a generous, well-placed window or set of glass doors.

If your home postdates the 1950s, a carefully-placed skylight will probably blend in reasonably well with the overall style. Still, for the sake of a clean front elevation, you should avoid installing skylights on roof surfaces that face the street. Note that a few generous skylights are better than a lot of small ones, both in ease of construction and in the daylight you gain per dollar. And of course, consider the orientation of the units before you install them, so you’ll have some idea of their daylighting value—or lack of it.